My First LOB experience in Similan!
Written by Juli Cole,23 December 2023.
I just returned from my first solid diving experience in Thailand. We had a positive experience on a one- day dive trip a year ago from Krabi province, so when an offer came to go on a live aboard this year 2023, we figured it would be a good first-time experience for us. We traveled up through Similan and Surin islands and since Flow has the same trip planned for February 2024, I thought I could tell you what a great trip you are in for! Actually, words don’t do justice so I have also put in lots of photos. For instance, telling you there were a gazillion fish just can’t portray the image!
We started at Similan Five. Similan is actually a version of the Malay word “Sembilan” as there are nine islands that make up the archipelago. The underwater reef along the Similan islands was rugged and rocky, perfect for the larger animals to hang out on. Coupled with the seasonal temperature drop, we were set to see something. And
we did – two Guitar sharks (also referred to as Shovelnose) on separate dives, one slightly over 1 m and the second was 2 m. When you go, they like to swim low to the sand on the edge of the reef – that’s where we were seeing them. And they cruise fast, so you have to be quick on the camera shutter. The first dive we were excited to see a large Paletail Unicornfish – until the subsequent dives in the day, where they were showing up in large groups. We also spotted the Bluespine Unicornfish as well.
That was the theme of the trip – why see one fish or one fish species when you can see many all at once?! 
The Similan Islands not only brought unusual fish we don’t normally see in the South China Sea region, it also brought fun terrain to navigate. Some of the sites were big boulders with swim throughs so if you were tired of the fish, you can have fun testing your buoyancy skills. Tachai Pinnacle was a surprising beauty; following the moor line down brings you on top of yet another big smooth granite face – until you drop over the edge and are blown away by the soft corals and sea fans. So unexpected! And again can I say gazillions of fish – and unafraid or so accustomed to divers, they come right up next to you.
Many of the dive sites were literally a buoy in the middle of the ocean – nothing more than that to mark the spot. You drop in and become amazed at what is just under the surface. Richelieu dive site is one such place, nothing more than a point of rock sticking out of the waves. We dove there three times in a day. It was overwhelming the first time; the second time was more exciting and by the third time I loved it. Even though there were many groups diving at the same time, the site is large enough and complex enough, with many channels, “canyons”, crisscrossing from one side to the other, its easy for the divemaster to lead their groups to different areas and avoid being crowded together.
Richelieu is mind blowing – so many little fish, yes gazillion, in clouds next to the reef and so many predators circling around the outside. Several species of emperors, trevallies, barracuda, mackerel – why have only one type after all?? – and they were big boys too – why go only half size?? And these ones were maybe not gazillions, but definitely in the hundreds in number. Of course, there were also many reef fish, species that are only seen in this region. Macro lovers – sorry you will be hard pressed; this will not be your environment. Macro creatures are there but too many fish are in the way of the reef.
One of my favorite dives was early morning on Aow Tau. This was the morning of the third day. It was a compara
tively shallower dive so visibility was excellent. As the sun began to hit the reef, the fish came out and became more active. After some of the more challenging dives earlier in the trip, this was a refreshing relaxed dive, perfect for waking up to. Dare I say, better than coffee?!
Our last day we came upon Boonsung Wreck dive. Wonderful large wreck without being overwhelming. The story goes it sank when the toilets began to overflow and would not stop flooding water – not sure if that is true or not. Many of the pipes and elements of the ship were left in situ so there is a lot of diversity to the reef that grew over the top of these things. Great place for macro and just all around an interesting place to dive.
Beware of the thermocline – the sciroccos of this underwater world. Instead of being stationary like we have encountered before, these currents were on the move. The water would become oily looking and we learned to be prepared when that occurred, that a strong current was coming as well as a dramatic change in temperature. I think our group recorded the lowest temp at 22 degrees so come prepared with some 3mm or above wetsuits. Our boat provided none, so we had only what we brought ourselves.
I will say being on a LOB is hard work. “Dive. Eat. Sleep. Repeat” is a true saying – many of us would fall into bed by 9pm or earlier. The first day was really tiring, but by day three, it became routine. Having had this first experience, I think going on another will be easier. I will know what to expect. The food was great, the crew amazing, and the accommodations adequate – they will vary from boat to boat. Seasickness was not a problem for me, I am not typically prone to it. What has been weird is the feeling after being on the boat – we all felt dizzy the first day back on land!
Would I do this again? Oh yah!!! Our journey through the area just touched on the highlights and I would love to go back and see more of these dive sites again. There was so much to explore and take in. I felt like I just got the hang of things and then the trip was over. I am looking forward to the next one!
Go check out Flow Dive Center’s dive trips for 2024! Book yourself a LOB experience and live the “Eat.Sleep.Dive” life for yourself!